Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Delonghi EO1238 Toaster Oven Repair

Toaster ovens are great, when they work. One morning, my Delonghi EO1238 stopped working. No lights, no heat, nothing (except the pronounced timer ticking) – it was if the unit was unplugged from the wall. A quick check and yes it was plugged in. Check the outlet to make sure a circuit breaker didn't trip and yes the outlet was working too.

What to do? Here’s some quick options… 1) Throw this one away and buy a new one – but I just got this one a year or so ago and I don’t have an extra $60-$100 lying around for a new one. 2) Go without toasted bagels – but I really like toasted bagels. Or 3) Repair it. I mean really, how hard could toaster oven repair it be?

I did a quick search on the ‘net for a cause based on the symptoms: no power, no light, no heat, timer still make a ticking noise and it looks like a blown thermal fuse (NTE 8167) will be the culprit. A call to the local electronics store and they have the part in stock for $0.96 cents! This would probably cost $50 or more to have it fixed in a service center. After my search, I discovered that there are only a few problems toaster ovens face:

  • Blown fuse = no power or lights at all.
  • Bad timer = the unit will not shut off automatically.
  • Bad thermostat = unregulated heat or no heat.
  • Tray/door won’t close = check the tray is correctly installed or no debris blocking door.
That’s about it. There’s not much to go wrong, so fixing toaster ovens should be simple.

Here are my detailed steps to fix the Delonghi EO1238 Toaster Oven. This guide will probably work for fixing the Delonghi EO1200, Delonghi EO1251, Delonghi EO1258, and Delonghi EO1260 toaster oven models as well as a general guide for fixing any toaster oven - they are really that simple.

Toaster oven repair is an easy ‘do it yourself’ project. This project will take about 30 minutes; I would rate this a 3 on a scale of 1 to 10 for difficulty, and it will easily save you $50 dollars or more! If this helps you, there is a note on the bottom of this post on how you can say “Thanks!”

The tools for this are fairly common and if you don’t have them they are available for just a few dollars at the local store. Here are the tools and parts you will need for this project:

  • Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Regular Pliers
  • Needle Nose Pliers with Wire Cutter - if you don’t have a wire cutter don’t worry.
  • T20 Torx Driver – Torx rhymes with forks!
  • 1 – NTE 8167 Thermal Fuse. You can get this from Newark Part #06M7505, Mouser Part #526-NTE8167, Halted Part #18164 or any local electronics parts store.

Now, a WORD OF WARNING: I am NOT an electric service technician or any type of repair person at all. My information is for provided for EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. By continuing, you implicitly agree to hold me harmless (indemnify me) for any loss, damage, or legal liability that may result by you continuing with this project. ONLY a professional should attempt to repair eclectic and/or electronic equipment. If you try this at home and you get hurt (or worse) or if it doesn't work – I am sorry, but I told you only professionals should attempt electronic repair.

Now that that’s said and out of the way and you still want to proceed, I recommend that you check and MAKE SURE that you have unplugged the toaster oven from the wall. Working on any electric appliance while connected to a power source could KILL YOU. So double check this one.

1. Remove the Side Panel on the Control Side of the Toaster Oven.

You will need to remove the gray plastic side panel to gain access to the fuse.

This cover is held in place by two (2) Torx screws located on the back of the unit and

a single (1) Phillips Head screw on the bottom near the front of the toaster oven.

These three (3) screws are the only ones you will need to remove.

What are Torx screws anyway? Torx screws are specially designed “safety/tamper proof” screws that have a six point star design and are commonly used in consumer electronics assembly. You can pick up a Torx driver at the electronics store where you purchased the NTE 8167 fuse. If they don’t have it, try Frys, Radio Shack, Home Depot, Lowes, Sears – you get the idea.

Once you have the screws removed, the side panel can be removed by slightly plying the cover away from the oven and then pulling the cover towards the rear of the oven.

The side panel has three guides that fit into slots on the top of the over that you want to disengage without breaking.

Don’t worry, the side panel is fairly sturdy so I don’t think you will break it but I want you to be aware about the tabs that hold it in place.

2. Locating the Thermal Fuse.

With the toaster oven on its side, the thermal fuse is located near the top of the toaster oven in a protective plastic tube and connected to a black wire.

The fuse is held in place by bracket clamp secured by a nut.

You will need to loosen this nut so that the fuse and attached wire can be slide through the bracket clamp.

This was tough for me, but I discovered a little cheat! The head of the screw that the nut is attached to is available inside the oven. You could use your Pliers to hold the nut while you take your Phillips Head screwdriver and loosen it from the inside. I didn't discover this until I was putting everything back together.

Once the nut is loose, take your Needle Nose pliers and remove the lead and black wire attached to the timer mechanism.

Now that the lead wire is removed from the timer mechanism, you can slide the wire through the clamp and gain access to the fuse.

Slide the protective plastic tube back down the wire to expose the fuse.

You should have access to the fuse similar to this.

3. Replacing the Thermal Fuse

Now that you have access to the fuse, you can try and pry loose the crimped metal connectors that attach the fuse to the black wire. These are factory crimped connectors and mine were impossible so I had to cut the wire to remove the fuse.

Before you cut the wire, make sure your new fuse includes new metal connectors (mine did). If you have to cut the wire, cut it on the outside of the connector (opposite side of the fuse) but as close to the connector as possible. Do this for both sides of the fuse. This will leave you plenty of remaining wire to work with.

Now that the fuse has been removed, you will need to install a new fuse.

If you cut the wire, you will need to trim the wire back for a new connection. Use your Needle Nose pliers with wire trimmer (or any knife, razor blade, X-Acto knife, etc) and trim the wire.

Only remove enough wire to fit into the new connector – nothing more.

Once the wire is trimmed and ready:

  1. Slide a new connector over the wire and then
  2. Slide the wire from the fuse into the connector
  3. Now take your pliers and crimp the connector. The connector will compress easily and securely join the two wires.

You will need to do this for both sides of the fuse – but make sure you still have the protective plastic cover on the wire!

Now that both sides of the fuse have been joined to the black wire, slide the protective plastic tube back over the fuse.

4. Re-Assembly.

It’s time to put everything back together. Just follow the instructions in reverse and everything will be finished soon:

  • Start with sliding the wire through the clamp.
  • Reattach the black wire’s lead to the timer.
  • Once the lead is attached, make sure the protective plastic cover is slide back into the clamp. Once you have it where you want it – tighten the clamp. It doesn't need to be hard tight – just snug enough to prevent the black wire from moving.
  • Put the side cover back on the unit. Start by aligning the three tabs on the top, slide the cover forward, and pop back into place.
  • Install the bottom Phillips Head screw.
  • Install the two (2) rear Torx screws.

Once everything is reassembled, you can plug the toaster back into the outlet. When you turn on the toaster oven you will now see the interior light working and the front red indicator lighting. You did it. Congratulations.

Viola– TOAST!

Now make yourself a nice cup of coffee and some cinnamon-sugar toast.

If you found this tutorial helpful, please consider saying thank you by leaving a tip for a cup of Joe or some bagels (I'm out)... You can click the tip jar image in the upper right hand corner or click here and you will be taken to PayPal to complete the transaction in total security. Check back often for other tutorials to fix your stuff.



  1. Great thoughts you got there, believe I may possibly try just some of it throughout my daily life


  2. My unit has a screw hidden behind the temperature selector (top) knob that must be removed before the side panel can be removed. The knob is difficult to remove-it has a spring that tightens around the shaft. Careful...the rubber insert breaks off easily. This is a cheaply made unit...virtually unrepairable. I'm an engineer and my hats off to the cheapest design possible....but I won't buy another.

    The thermal fuse was open in this unit.

  3. Thanks! I did this. It worked!
    A couple of comments... make sure you have a torx screwdriver with the divet there for the pin - I had a cheaper version and had to buy the correct one at Home Depot for 10 bucks. Worth it. The fuse was 3 bucks. Total repair 13 dollars.
    Also, I found that the screw that tightens the clamp came loose easily with a tiny 9/32 circle wrench. It's difficult to hold the bolt head on the inside of the unit because it is a smooth head (not philip's head as you said). That said, I did need to hold it with pliers when tightening it back down.
    Lastly, be sure you clamp those suckers well, both of mine came loose after my first try and I had to start all over again.

  4. This worked for me! Easy repair. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.

  5. Thanks for the detailed write-up! I did the first fuse replacement on my 2006-purchased DeLonghi EO1238 in 2009 and took pics, meaning to post to Amazon reviews just to help other people out, but never got around to doing so. Subsequently, I've had to replace the fuse one more time since 2009 on my toaster, and my parents bought the same model in 2007 based on my (now not-so-good) review and recommendation, and just learned today they likely blew their fuse as well. The fact that DeLonghi probably knows this is a common fault, but when calling them, they want you to ship it to them for what is likely an expensive repair, is unfortunate.

    BTW - I've also had a couple of door springs break over the years on these same 2 toaster ovens. :(

    1. My door spring broke also. Where do I get a replacement spring & how do I fix this?

    2. This comment has been removed by the author.

    3. I went to ereplacementparts.com & bought the spring for $8.24.
      I unscrewed the 2 torx screws in the back & 1 Phillips head screw on the bottom front, to release the plastic side panel on the left (if facing front of toaster). Then slide side panel toward rear of toaster & it should come free.
      Hook the spring into the hole near the back & the hole near the front (both holes are part of moving hinge mechanism). Very difficult to stretch spring into place. Had to use 2 people & pair of pliers.

  6. Thanks for the walk through, made it much easier to fix! Tried to leave a tip, but looks like you disabled your Paypal account.

  7. This comment has been removed by the author.

  8. It took almost two hours but I did it! It's now working quite nicely and broils better than before, I think. It might be that when older fuses are about to go, they have faster and more frequent thermal cut-offs, increasing cooking time.

    The screws came off the side cover easily but it took awhile to get the cover off because of those tabs, and even longer to place it back on. Aligning those tabs wasn't easy! I also had a different rachet screw in the oven, so I needed a rachet screwdriver to loosen it. Once I did, the nut loosened easily. It was impossible to pry the original crimped connectors, so I had to cut and trim. After I removed the lead from the timing mechanism, I couldn't tell if you slid the lead through the clamp, too. I left it and that part of the wire on the timing side of the clamp while I did my crimping. One of my crimped connections was perfect. The other one, on the side of the bracket near the timer, has a tiny amount of copper wire showing between the rubber and the connector. If the crimped connector is about 5/16" inch, probably less than 1/16" or about .10-.16 of a cm is showing between the black rubber wire and the connector. Could this cause a problem? The plastic bracket is over the fuse and the wire. I've used the unit and it appears to be operating perfectly.

    The original fuse in my unit was a Sefuse SF169E with a thermal cutoff of 172ºC. The NTE8167 fuse (according to Amazon and Parts-Express.com) has a thermal cutoff of 171ºC. Newark.com says it's 169ºC. The writing on the fuse itself says 170ºC. I searched the internet and other than a bunch of sites in China, the only other place I could find it was on a UK site for about 50¢ a piece. Unfortunately the shipping to the US was $34!

    There are some sellers (mostly from China) selling it on Ebay in lots of 5-10 pieces for very reasonble prices. Many have positive feedback. I'm not sure if it's safe to take a chance on purchasing a fuse on Ebay, but for all we know, they may be getting them from the same supplier that the other online retailers order from.

    Here's the link for the Sefuse dealers on ebay. Did anyone ever order fuses from ebay and the China suppliers?


    In summary, now that I know what's involved, if I had to do it again, it would probably take less than a half hour. It's amazing to me how poorly the housing was designed, with the oven screw so near the top, so little room to maneuver, and the nut encased in such a narrow area. I couldn't have seen anything in that little space without using a flashlight. Obviously, with this kind of design, the company is encouraging customers to go to authorized service centers or to buy a new unit when the fuse goes. I have another Delonghi, and both cook food fantastically. I'm not sure how their current models rate, but the older ones were always rated highly. Even the bracket seems cheap. Regarding the bracket, does a somewhat thick piece of plastic cost that much more than a small piece of solid metal tubing?

    Now does anyone know a good way to replace the black plastic handles that are attached to the metallic temp, oven, and function knobs? Mine melted off a long time ago, as they seemed to be glued to the metal. I have no problem turning the controls, but it looked more aesthetically pleasing with the handles.

  9. Thanks very much. I replaced the fuse and it lite right up. It's an old tarnished oven but expect to get months perhaps years more use out of it. Very helpful instructions. I would have looked for a new one if not for these.

  10. Great writeup INBV - got the fuse and installed it (with some difficulty) and our toaster oven is up and running again, much to my wife's delight. Our fuse came without the connectors, but we got some from our local hardware store (Roush Hardware) and that took care of it. Thanks again for the help and giving us the courage to try this repair on our own!

  11. Thank you for a gift that keeps giving. I was able to buy a "NTE8167 - Thermal Cut-Off Fuse" fuse from RadioShack.com and make the repair for just a few dollars. I ended up using the crimp connectors to join what I left of the old leads to the new leads (which I clipped to a length just longer than the connector). I added a little solder to make sure the connection was secure.

  12. This worked for me. Followed the instructions exactly. Took about an hour or so. Hardest part was to loosen the nut. Thanks!

  13. My Delonghi turbo convection toaster oven's lower elements do not heat. The top ones do. Is there anything i can do? Thanks.

  14. Thanks for taking the time to post such a detailed how-to. You saved me $250! (the price of the new toaster my wife wanted to buy).

  15. I did it! Problems though. Like a user above my unit has a screw under the temperature knob that needed to be removed. I didn't know that so the plastic tab that receives the screw got broken off during removal of the cover. Don't matter. Also, the photos are great but it would help to have one of the cover tabs that shows the shape - "L-shape insert tab. That's why you need to slide the cover backwards. I also had a tough time getting the plastic sleeve back on over the new fuse. Took a lot of wiggling. Maybe warm up the sleeve? Thanks a lot for this post.

  16. This was a great post! Got my Delonghi EO1200 working again! Thanks bro you saved me $80 for a new one! God bless!

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